resin skull kit instructions

  • Remove all resin sprues from each of the resin parts, cut the excess off using a saw or Dremel cutting wheel.

  • Sand the resin flush with the casting. Start with a coarse grit sand paper and move up to a finer grit for a smooth finish.

  • Remove seam lines from the casting by sanding flush. Use a medium grit sand paper.

White plastic skull and jaw model on a green cutting mat with a grid pattern.
Close-up of a hand in a glove using a yellow sponge to clean the surface of a white plastic object with embossed patterns, on a green cutting mat.
Close-up of a white plastic skull model being held in a gloved hand, with a yellow sticky note attached to the top, on a green cutting mat with a yellow grid pattern.

  • Drill a hole through the side of the Skull in the position shown. This is where the 2 x AAA battery box will be stored. This can be done with a hole cutter, or a spade drill bit.

  • Now using an 8mm drill bit. Drill a hole in each eye for the LED cable route. The holes need to be drilled deep enough to reach the hole cut in the side of the skull.

  • All holes for the cabling are now complete

A white plastic skull model on a green cutting mat with yellow grid lines, with a black cordless drill positioned in the eye socket.
A white plastic skull model with a cutout section, held by a person wearing gloves, placed on a green cutting mat with yellow grid lines.
A white skull-shaped mold with hollow eye sockets, held by a hand wearing a Nitrile glove, against a green cutting mat with yellow measurement grid lines.

  • Using a Dremel remove any excess material inside the sides of the skull.

  • Shape the side pieces of the skull to get them to fit neatly into the recesses of the skull.

  • Make sure to remove enough material so that one of the side pieces can be removed easily after painting. As this is how you will access the battery box, to turn on the skull or change the batteries.

A white plastic skull model on a cutting mat with a green and yellow grid pattern, with a black drill near the eye socket.
A white plastic or ceramic skull model with hollow eye sockets and nose cavity, positioned on a green cutting mat with yellow measurement grid lines.
White plastic object with internal gear-like components on a green cutting mat with yellow grid lines.

  • Drill a 5mm hole through the middle of each eye. This is where the LED will be glued later after painting.

  • Cut an 8mm piece of red acrylic rod for each eye. sand the ends with 400 grit sand paper. Glue this into each eye as shown after painting. Remember to test fit all parts prior to painting.

  • The black plastic washer will be installed in each eye to mimic eye shutters after painting as shown in the pictures. Paint the inside of the eyes black before assembly.

  • The clear lens will then be placed in last, test fit before painting as the eye cavity or lens may need slight sanding to fit tightly in place.

  • The LEDs will be glued into the back of each eye.

Close-up of a white plastic bottle cap with a central hole, placed on a green cutting mat with yellow grid lines.
A vernier caliper measuring a white plastic spool on a green cutting mat with yellow grid lines.
A small plastic figure of a white egg-shaped creature with a red cylindrical nose, placed on a green cutting mat with yellow grid lines.
A white plastic device with a central black dot, a black rubber washer, and a clear glass marble on a green cutting mat with yellow grid lines.
A small white plastic object with a circular shape and a black and red center, placed on a green cutting mat with yellow grid lines.
Close-up of a small white camera lens or sensor on a green cutting mat with yellow grid lines.

  • Drill 4x 5.5mm holes in each eye socket, as seen in the picture. Test fit the eye rollers with the eyes in position, and drill the holes larger if needed.

  • Eye rollers should be installed like shown. Test fit parts. Paint separately before final installation.

Close-up of the inside of a white plastic object with oval and circular holes, possibly part of a household appliance or device.
Close-up of the inside of a white plastic object, possibly a lid or a cap, featuring a central hole with a red component inside and several surrounding openings or vents.
Close-up of the inside of a white electrical device with six metallic screw terminals, arranged in a circular pattern around a central hole with a red stopper.

  • Take the 2 LEDs and solder the 2x red wires to the red wire coming from the battery box, then solder the 2x black wires to the black wire coming from the battery box.

  • Use some black tape or heat shrink to protect the connection.

  • Test that the circuit works with 2x new AAA batteries.

  • Also test fit the LEDs into the holes drilled earlier.

  • Make sure the led fits in the back of the eye.

A white plastic skull model with wiring and LED lights inside, placed on a green cutting mat with yellow measurement grid.
A white plastic skull model with wires and small LED lights attached, placed on a green cutting mat.
Close-up of a white plastic skull with electrical wires and a battery pack attached inside the eye socket, placed on a green cutting mat with yellow grid lines.
Close-up of a white device with a black cable attached, placed on a green cutting mat with yellow grid lines.

  • Drill a 2.5mm hole into the bottom of each resin piston for the piston rod to slide into,

  • BE CAREFUL WHEN DRILLING! DO NOT BREAK THE PISTON TAB. DO NOT HOLD THE PISTON NEAR OR BY THE TAB WHEN DRILLING!

  • The piston tab has been pre drilled and tapped to allow the du-bro piston pivot to be screwed into place as shown. Be careful as the tab is delicate.

  • Use the metal rod supplied and cut off as much needed to insert into the resin piston.

  • The pistons and pivots are assembled as shown.

  • The smaller pivot is attached to the lower jaw, the longer pivot is attached to the skull as shown.

  • To fit the piece into the lower jaw drill a 3mm hole. Be sure to check the fitment before gluing any parts.

Close-up of a small white plastic T-shaped fitting on a green cutting mat with yellow grid lines.
Two 3D printer extruder nozzles with white plastic parts and metal shafts on a green cutting mat with yellow grid lines.
Two metal and plastic assembly parts on a green cutting mat with yellow grid lines.
A white anatomical skull model with metal and plastic mechanical parts and screws, placed on a green cutting mat with a yellow grid.

  • You are now ready to paint the parts of your kit.

  • Before painting make sure to wet sand the parts to give the paint a good surface to adhere to. We recommend using 600-800 Grit for this process.

  • Be sure to wash all parts thoroughly with warm soapy water to remove any mold release that may be left on the parts from the manufacturing process.

  • Once Painted you are ready to assemble the parts. We recommend super glue or 5 minute epoxy. Clear glues work best for the inner eye parts.

    PAINT TIPS

  • Primer your parts with a primer spray paint, then use a gloss black base before any metallic finish. You can then finish with your choice of top coat. Some people like to use ALCLAD chrome or Molotow liquid chrome.

  • Follow up any metallic finish with a sealer clear coat.

  • Alternatively you can do a weathered damaged look, or even other finishes such as textured paint to mimic the look of a T-700. Your imagination is your only limit.

  • Send us a Picture of your finished kit.

  • If you require any help or advice, just send us a message and we will be more than happy to help.

Three detailed skull sculptures, with one shiny metallic chrome finish, one rusted with a weathered look, and one matte black, arranged on a white table.